We opted to do this couloir in order to save time. I had doubts (well-founded) about the rock block at the top of the snow field. Expert rock climber John Courtney gallantly ascended it and dropped a rope to me. When I followed I was amazed at his feat. Even being "top roped" I had to muscle my way up a difficult section-something I would never have done without protection. Later we turned around at 12,500' because the snow was turning too soft.
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